Expert Guide to Using Henna and Indigo for Grays

For hairdressers and advanced users: Covering gray hair naturally with henna and indigo delivers permanent, conditioning color without ammonia or PPD sensitivity. But achieving predictable dark brown to black results on resistant grays requires precise ratios, proper application technique, and understanding plant dye chemistry.

This professional guide shows exactly how to use henna and indigo for gray coverage, with tested formulas and troubleshooting strategies for consistent salon-quality results.

You’ll learn:

  • Exact henna and indigo ratios for dark brown (30:70) and black hair color
  • Two-step vs one-step application methods for gray coverage
  • How to prep hair differently than chemical color (critical for dye uptake)
  • Troubleshooting resistant grays, hot roots, and indigo fade
  • Professional maintenance schedules to prevent red buildup

Why Henna + Indigo Works for Gray Coverage

The Chemistry Behind the Color

Henna alone stains gray hair bright orange-red. Indigo alone on light hair turns blue-green and fades quickly. Together, they create brown to black through a specific chemical interaction.

The molecular process:

Henna (Lawsonia inermis) contains lawsone, a naphthoquinone molecule that permanently bonds to keratin protein through a Michael addition reaction. This creates a red-orange stain that penetrates the hair cuticle and becomes part of the hair structure—it cannot be removed by shampooing or chemical stripping.

Blue (indigotin) + red-orange (lawsone) = brown to black depending on the ratio of indigo to henna.

Why Sequence Matters

The critical factor: henna must be applied first.

Lawsone creates a mordant effect—the permanent red-orange base gives indigotin something to grip onto. Without that henna foundation, indigo has poor adhesion to clean keratin, results in muddy blue-green tones (no red to neutralize the blue), and washes out within days.

This is why the two-step process (henna application, rinse, then separate indigo application) produces the most reliable, longest-lasting results for gray coverage. The henna layer has time to fully bond and oxidize before indigo is introduced, ensuring maximum stability for both dyes.

One-step mixes (henna and indigo mixed together before application) can work for maintenance or light coverage, but the indigo begins oxidizing in the bowl, meaning some of its dye potential is lost before it even touches hair. Two-step ensures each dye works at peak effectiveness.

Critical Differences: Plant-Based vs Chemical Color Preparation

If you’re transitioning from conventional hair color to henna and indigo, flip your preparation and aftercare routine. What protects during chemical processing blocks plant dyes. What locks in chemical color strips plant color before it develops.

Before Application: The Preparation Reversal

Chemical color:

  • Don’t shampoo (oils protect scalp from irritation)
  • Slightly dirty hair is ideal

Plant dye:

  • Always clarify with sulfate shampoo (buildup blocks dye molecules)
  • Squeaky-clean hair is essential

Why the difference:

Chemical dyes use alkaline agents to open the cuticle and deposit synthetic molecules inside the cortex. Scalp oils protect against irritation.

Plant dyes bind to clean keratin on the hair’s surface. Lawsone and indigotin are large molecules that attach to the cuticle—but only if it’s completely clean. Any coating (oils, silicones, minerals, conditioner) blocks contact.

Before henna/indigo:

The Sulfate Question

Sulfate shampoos strip natural oils and cause dryness—valid criticism for regular washing. But for henna/indigo prep, sulfates are essential.

You need that stripping power once before color application to remove barriers blocking dye uptake.

The strategy:

  • Before color: One clarifying wash with sulfates
  • After color (48+ hours): Switch to sulfate-free (protects indigo)
  • Maintenance: Sulfate-free or low-poo (preserves moisture and color)

Use sulfates strategically for prep, avoid them for maintenance.

After Application: The Aftercare Reversal

Chemical color:

  • Shampoo immediately (stops chemical reaction)

Plant dye:

  • No shampoo for 48-72 hours (color still oxidizing)
  • Water rinse only

Why:

Chemical processing happens during application. Once rinsed, the reaction stops—shampoo immediately.

Plant dyes develop for 48-72 hours after application. Lawsone and indigotin oxidize and bond slowly. Color immediately after rinsing is only 60-70% of the final result. Shampooing too soon strips molecules before they set—especially indigo, which fades to red/brassy.

After rinsing:

  • Cool water rinse (no shampoo)
  • Optional conditioner, rinse well
  • Dark towel (color can transfer)
  • Avoid wetting hair 24-48 hours
  • First shampoo at 48-72 hours, sulfate-free, cool water

The Henna-Only Horror Story

A common mistake: using henna alone for gray coverage without understanding you need indigo to neutralize the red.

A woman in Mexico tried henna for the first time on her gray hair. She got distracted and left it on several hours longer than the instructions suggested—thinking more time might mean better coverage. When she rinsed and saw the results, she was horrified. Desperate for reassurance, she asked her husband, “Do I look like a carrot?”

He paused. “No, dear… more like an apple.”

She didn’t try henna again.

The lesson: Henna alone always produces red-orange tones on gray hair, regardless of processing time. Leaving it on for 6 hours instead of 3 doesn’t make it brown—it just makes it more intensely orange-red. You need indigo to create brown and black shades.

Processing time guidelines:

  • Henna: 3-6 hours is the effective range; beyond 6 hours adds no benefit (lawsone has fully bonded)
  • Indigo: 30-90 minutes; longer doesn’t help and may actually oxidize too much in the paste before bonding

More time ≠ darker color. Proper ratios and the two-step process create depth, not extended processing.

Quick Reference

Step Chemical Color Plant-Based Color Pre-shampoo No Yes—clarify with sulfates Buildup removal Not necessary Essential Post-rinse shampoo Immediately Wait 48-72 hours Color development During processing only Continues 48-72 hours Maintenance shampoo Color-safe Sulfate-free

Client Prep Sheet

Prevent “I shampooed and now it’s orange” calls:

  • “Shampoo with clarifying shampoo the morning of your appointment. No conditioner or styling products.”
  • “Don’t shampoo for 48 hours after. Color darkens during this time.”
  • “Bring a dark scarf if concerned about transfer.”

Dark Brown to Black: Formulas and Ratios

Achieving predictable dark shades on gray hair requires precise henna-to-indigo ratios and understanding when to use one-step vs two-step application.

Dark Brown (One-Step or Two-Step)

Target shade: Dark chocolate brown on white/gray hair

One-step formula (for 100g total powder, short hair):

  • 30g henna (BAQ/body art quality)
  • 70g indigo (fresh, purchased within 6 months)
  • 1 tsp fine sea salt (helps indigo penetrate resistant grays)
  • Warm distilled water to yogurt consistency

Process:

  1. Mix henna with water the night before; cover, dye-release 8-12 hours
  2. Day of application: Mix indigo separately with warm water + salt, rest 15 minutes
  3. Combine pastes thoroughly
  4. Apply to clarified hair, process 3-4 hours under cap
  5. Rinse water only; no shampoo 48 hours

Result: Medium to dark brown on gray. Deepens over 48-72 hours as indigo oxidizes.

Indigo (Indigofera tinctoria) contains indican, which oxidizes to indigotin when exposed to air. Indigotin is a larger, less stable molecule that deposits blue pigment on top of the lawsone-keratin bond.

Limitation: One-step can’t achieve true jet black—indigo needs more development time.

Two-step for deeper, cooler brown:

Day 1 – Henna:

  • 100g pure henna (200g+ for long hair)
  • Process 3-6 hours, rinse thoroughly

Day 1 or 2 – Indigo:

  • 100g pure indigo + 1 tsp salt per 100g
  • Mix fresh, rest 15 minutes
  • Apply to hennaed hair (damp or dry)
  • Process 45-60 minutes
  • Rinse with cool water only

Result: Darkest brown possible, nearly soft black. Cooler tone than one-step.

For 50%+ gray coverage, two-step is essential for even, lasting results.

Black Hair Color

True jet black requires either very high indigo ratios or a pure indigo follow-up after henna.

High-indigo one-step (soft black):

  • 25g henna + 75g indigo per 100g total
  • Process 4+ hours
  • Result: Soft black to very dark brown

Two-step for jet black (professional standard):

  1. Full henna application (100g), 3-6 hours
  2. Full indigo application (100g), 1-2 hours, rinse cold
  3. Optional: Second indigo 24-48 hours later for absolute jet black

Maintenance critical for black: Indigo fades first (blue washes out), revealing henna base. Clients need indigo-only root touch-ups every 4-6 weeks to maintain black without red buildup from repeated henna.

Two-Step vs One-Step Comparison

Factor Two-Step One-Step Gray coverage Excellent—best for resistant grays Good—may have gaps on coarse hair Depth Darkest possible (near-black) Medium-dark brown maximum Tone Cooler brown-black Warmer, visible red base Time 6-8 hours total (2 sessions) 3-4 hours (1 session) Permanence Most permanent Permanent, indigo may fade faster Best for Professionals, 50%+ gray, black hair goals Maintenance, <50% gray, convenience

Professional recommendation: Start all new gray-coverage clients on two-step. Once formula is dialed in after 2-3 applications, consider switching to one-step for convenience—only if results stay consistent.

📥 Download: Gray Coverage Formula Cheat Sheet

Get instant access to our printable quick-reference guide with all ratios, timing, and troubleshooting at your fingertips.

Troubleshooting Gray Coverage with Henna and Indigo

Even with precise ratios and careful application, plant-based gray coverage presents unique challenges. Here’s how to diagnose and fix the most common problems.

Hot Roots (Bright Orange Roots, Dark Lengths)

Symptoms: Vivid orange-red regrowth while lengths are dark brown or black.

Cause: Virgin regrowth processes henna faster than previously colored hair. If indigo is applied to wet hennaed roots, it dilutes and slides off before penetrating. Ends stay dark (color buildup), roots stay orange.

Prevention:

  • Let henna dry completely on roots before indigo, OR
  • Apply indigo to roots first, wait 15 minutes, then lengths
  • Use more indigo at roots (25:75 henna:indigo ratio vs 30:70 on lengths)

Correction:

  • Pure indigo on roots only, 30-45 minutes
  • Repeat weekly until roots match
  • For extreme cases: thin henna application on roots (1 hour), then indigo

Pro tip: Hot roots are the #1 first-application complaint. Warn clients and plan a complimentary root correction 1-2 weeks later if needed. By application 3, you’ll have their formula dialed in.

Resistant Grays Won’t Take Color

Symptoms: Patchy coverage with visible white hairs, especially at temples or crown. Color looks “sparkly” where grays reflect light.

Cause: Coarse gray hairs have tighter cuticles—dye molecules can’t penetrate. Hard water mineral buildup creates an invisible barrier.

Solutions:

Before application:

  • Chelating treatment (citric acid or mineral remover) before clarifying shampoo
  • Check client’s home water quality

During application:

  • Add 1 tsp salt per 100g indigo (improves penetration)
  • Heat: plastic cap + warm towel wrap (not hot—damages indigo)
  • Extend time: 4-5 hours henna, 60-90 minutes indigo
  • Thicker paste: yogurt consistency maintains contact

Process: Two-step is non-negotiable for resistant grays. Consider “triple step” for extreme cases: henna, rinse, indigo, rinse, second indigo 24 hours later.

Expect gradual results: First application may achieve 70-80% coverage. Second fills gaps. By third, coverage is typically complete.

Indigo Fades to Reddish-Brown

Symptoms: Color great for 2-3 weeks, then shifts warm—dark brown becomes auburn, black becomes brown with red tones.

Cause: Indigo oxidizes when exposed to UV, chlorine, hot water, and sulfate shampoos. As indigo fades, permanent henna base shows through.

Prevention:

Immediate aftercare:

  • Cold water rinse (heat releases indigo)
  • No shampoo 72 hours (full oxidation time)

Ongoing:

  • Sulfate-free shampoo only
  • Cool or lukewarm water for washing
  • UV protection (hats or leave-in UV spray)
  • Pre-swim: wet hair with clean water, apply oil, wear cap; shampoo after chlorinated water

Maintenance strategy:

  • Indigo-only root touch-ups every 4-6 weeks (prevents red buildup)
  • Indigo gloss on lengths: 15-minute application between touch-ups
  • Avoid over-hennaing (full henna every 4 weeks builds up red that overpowers indigo)

Active fade correction:

  • Indigo-only on faded areas, 30-60 minutes
  • Weekly indigo glosses until stable
  • Review wash routine (cooler water, sulfate-free)

Uneven Banding or Patches

Symptoms: Horizontal color bands or random patches that didn’t take color.

Causes:

  • Inconsistent ratios batch-to-batch
  • Paste consistency changed (indigo thickens as it sits)
  • Variable processing time across sections
  • Overlap on regrowth applications
  • Buildup blocking dye in patches

Prevention:

Mixing:

  • Weigh powders every time (digital scale, no eyeballing)
  • Make enough paste (running out mid-application = inconsistent batches)
  • Stir indigo every 10-15 minutes during application

Application:

  • Section systematically (4-6 sections minimum)
  • Check coverage in mirror before timing
  • Time only after all sections saturated
  • Regrowth: apply to new growth only, avoid overlap

Correction:

Too dark areas: Difficult to fix—indigo is permanent once oxidized. Multiple clarifying washes slightly fade but don’t expect dramatic change. Feather the demarcation line on next application.

Too light areas: Spot-correct with indigo-only (or henna+indigo if uncolored), 30-60 minutes. Feather edges to blend.

Professional Systems for Consistency

Client color cards:
Track for each client:

  • Starting hair color (photo or swatch)
  • Formula (exact grams henna, indigo, additives)
  • Brand and batch number
  • Processing times (henna and indigo separately)
  • Results (photo 72 hours post-application)
  • Texture, resistance, fade rate notes

After 2-3 applications, you’ll have a dialed-in formula. New clients require experimentation; established clients become routine.

Strand testing:
Always test first-time clients:

  • Cut small section from underneath
  • Apply planned formula
  • Process same timing as full head
  • Wait 72 hours, photograph
  • Adjust before full application

Maintenance Schedule for Long-Term Gray Coverage

Henna is permanent (builds up) while indigo is semi-permanent (fades). Long-term success requires treating them separately after initial applications.

Building Color: First 3-4 Applications

Every 4-6 weeks: Full henna + indigo on all hair

Goal: Establish base color and depth. Most clients need 3 applications for full, even coverage—especially on resistant grays.

Progression:

  • Application 1: 70-80% coverage, lighter than expected
  • Application 2: 85-95% coverage, depth increases
  • Application 3: Full coverage, color stabilizes
  • Application 4: Enter maintenance phase

Root Touch-Ups: Indigo-Only

Every 4-6 weeks as new gray appears

Why indigo-only:
Repeated henna on roots creates excessive red buildup—eventually no amount of indigo can neutralize it, and roots glow orange.

Formula:

  • 100% pure indigo (no henna)
  • Mix with warm water + 1 tsp salt per 100g
  • Apply only to new growth (avoid overlap)
  • Process 45-60 minutes, rinse cool

Refreshing Lengths: Indigo Gloss

Every 8-12 weeks when lengths fade warm

Formula:

  • Pure indigo, thin consistency
  • Mid-lengths to ends only (skip roots)
  • Process 15-30 minutes maximum

Purpose: Refresh faded indigo without adding more henna. Keeps browns and blacks cool between full applications.

Full Henna + Indigo Refresh

Every 3-4 months (quarterly)

Apply henna + indigo to all hair to maintain vibrancy and condition. Frequent enough for rich color, infrequent enough to avoid excessive henna buildup.

Sample 6-Month Salon Calendar

Adjust based on client’s growth and fade rate.

Between-Appointment Care

Shampoo:

  • Sulfate-free only (protects indigo)
  • Cool or lukewarm water (hot fades indigo)
  • 1-2x per week maximum

Conditioning:

  • Weekly deep conditioning (indigo can be drying)
  • Herbal rinses (amla, hibiscus) add shine and maintain tone

Protection:

  • UV spray or hat for sun exposure
  • Pre-swim: wet hair, apply oil, wear cap; shampoo after chlorinated water
  • Avoid salt water when possible

Red flags:

  • Lengths turning warm → Schedule indigo gloss
  • Visible roots at 3 weeks → Switch to 4-week schedule
  • Fade within 2 weeks → Review wash routine, water temperature, products

Key Takeaways

  • Henna first, indigo second: Non-negotiable chemistry for brown and black on gray
  • Preparation opposite of chemical color: Clarify before (remove buildup), no shampoo 48-72 hours after (color still developing)
  • Dark brown = ~30% henna, 70% indigo; black = 25:75 or two-step with pure indigo
  • Two-step beats one-step for resistant grays, deepest color, coolest tones
  • Indigo fades, henna is permanent: Maintain with indigo-only roots every 4-6 weeks to prevent red buildup
  • Common problems have fixes: Hot roots (more indigo), resistant grays (salt + heat), banding (consistent ratios), fade (sulfate-free + cool water)
  • Track everything: Client color cards ensure repeatable results

📋 Professional Tool: Client Color Card Template

Track formulas, results, and fade patterns for every client. Never guess at ratios again.

client-color-card-template.pdfDownload

What’s Next

Explore other natural gray coverage methods:

  • Henna and Cassia for Gray Blending – Lighter, warmer tones for partial coverage
  • Herbal Rinses to Darken Gray Hair – Sage, rosemary, tea for gradual darkening
  • Which Natural Gray Coverage Method Is Best for You? – Compare all methods

Ready to perfect your formulas?
Download: Gray Coverage Formula Cheat Sheet

gray-coverage-cheat-sheet1.pdfDownload

About This Guide

This professional guide synthesizes formulations and techniques documented in The Encyclopedia of Henna and field research by Catherine Cartwright-Jones, PhD, along with established best practices from the plant-based hair color community. The ratios, processes, and troubleshooting strategies reflect tested, professional-grade applications for consistent results on gray coverage.

The author curates and presents this information for professional hairdressers and advanced users; all methods are based on documented research and community knowledge in natural hair color.

**As a member of Amazon Affiliate program using my links helps me to support myself and produce quality content.

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Scalp Aging: Biology, Photoaging & Protection Protocols

Disclaimer: This article is for educational purposes only. And does not intend to replace medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. For specific concerns, consult a board-certified dermatologist.

Introduction

We’re obsessed over facial serums and SPF—but the skin that anchors our hair is often an afterthought. The scalp sits at the intersection of skin health and hair density, and it’s uniquely vulnerable: exposed to UV, frequently under-protected, and prone to chronic micro-inflammation. For professionals— dermatologists, trichologists, estheticians, cosmetologists—this isn’t just cosmetic. It’s a preventive routine, early detection, an anti-aging scalp care, and client education all in one conversation.

In this guide, you’ll learn: the biology of scalp aging (barrier shifts, micro-inflammation, HFSC decline), how photoaging differs from chronologic aging, risk profiles (balding scalps and visible part lines), professional diagnostics, a do/no-harm care protocol, product-form education for scalp SPF, and fast referral rules. Educational only.

What Is Scalp Aging?

Scalp aging refers to structural and functional scalp changes in skin and hair over time—barrier dryness, inflammation, and gradual follicle miniaturization (gradually leading to hair loss)—often accelerated by UV exposure and inconsistent protection. Because the scalp is skin, basic scalp care matters and may help prevent certain types of hair loss when guided by evidence-based routines. American Academy of Dermatology

The Biology of Scalp Aging (Plain English, pro terms in parentheses)

Barrier shifts (sebum, TEWL, microbiome)

With age, many people produce less sebum. Less oil + repeated cleansing or alcohol-heavy styling can raise transepidermal water loss (TEWL), leaving the scalp drier and more reactive. Simple, consistent scalp care helps maintain a healthier barrier. American Academy of Dermatology

Micro-inflammation & oxidative stress (ROS, para-inflammation)

Daily exposures—UV, pollution, friction—generate reactive oxygen species (ROS) and low-grade inflammation. Over time, this micro-inflammation degrades the skin and tissues (extracellular matrix) and hair (follicular) support system, setting the stage for hair thinning and balding.

HFSC aging & miniaturization (hair follicle stem cells, niche)

Aging disrupts hair follicle stem cells (HFSCs) and their niche (dermal papilla, extracellular matrix). Reviews show intrinsic (cell) and extrinsic (niche) mechanisms that blunt regeneration, shorten hair growth/life cycle (anagen), and produce thinner fibers—miniaturization—even without overt disease. PMC+1

UV-induced damage (photoaging, AK risk)

UV damage (photoaging) accelerates collagen breakdown and DNA damage, leading to rapid aging of the scalp. On thinning or bald scalps, it raises the risk for actinic keratoses (AKs). This common precancer can progress to squamous cell carcinoma if untreated. The Skin Cancer Foundation

Why the scalp behaves differently than the face

For many, facial SPF is an everyday routine, but scalp SPF is often missed. As hair density drops (balding, widened part lines), scalp protection falls and direct UV exposure rises—especially for outdoor workers. Cleveland Clinic

Photoaging vs. Chronologic Aging (Know the Difference)

  • Chronologic aging: Natural declines in HFSC activity and barrier function over time with age.
  • Photoaging: UV-driven degradation and mutational burden; premature aging on the scalp, it’s concentrated where coverage is sparse and skin is exposed (crown, vertex, part lines).
  • Coverage illusions: When you think you’re protected but you’re NOT. Case study reports focal photodamage and AKs despite baseball-cap use—the brim doesn’t cover the lateral and occipital scalp. Broad-brim UPF hats + direct scalp SPF are superior. JAMA Network

Risk Profiles: Who Needs Aggressive Prevention?

  • Balding/thinning patterns: Men with vertex loss; women with widened part lines. UV exposure and AK risk increase as protection from hair decreases. NCBI
  • Outdoor & uniformed professionals: Construction, coaches, lifeguards, delivery, agriculture—sweat + sun + inconsistent reapplication.
  • Fair phototypes & prior AKs: Higher baseline risk; field cancerization requires regular checks. The Skin Cancer Foundation

Diagnostic & Tooling: A Quick Pro Toolkit

Dermoscopy (trichoscopy) basics

Look for shrinking (miniaturization), scaling, unusual swelling, and redness around the hair follicles (perifollicular erythema), rough scaly discolortions or dark spots (macules) on sun-exposed scalp suggestive of AKs. Capture baseline images (×20/×40) for comparisons.

Photography protocols

Standardized camera angles (frontal hairline, part, vertex, crown), lighting, distance, and hair positioning to make change measurable, visit-to-visit.

Documentation tips

Use a scalp map; chart location/size/texture, and patient reports (“bleeds when combing”). Tag images with date/time and de-identifiers.

When to consider lab/biopsy (educational only)

  • Persistent, thick, or non-healing lesions; recurrent crusting/bleeding
  • Multiple AKs across a sun-exposed field
  • Uncertain inflammatory vs. precancerous process → refer to dermatology
  • Only licensed clinicians should order/interpret biopsies

Consent & privacy: Obtain informed consent for photos/dermoscopy; store images securely and follow HIPAA standards.

Evidence-Based Care Protocols (Do/No-Harm Framing)

GoalModalityWho It’s ForHow to UseSafety Notes
UV protectionScalp SPF (powder/mist/stick/liquid)Balding, thinning, part linesApply SPF 30+ to exposed scalp; reapply mid-day/after sweatSection hair and rub in. Powders for part lines; avoid inhalation.
Barrier healthGentle cleansing (non-stripping shampoos)AllWash as needed to remove oil/sweat; avoid harsh detergentsConsistent scalp care helps prevent some types of hair loss.
Anti-inflammationKetoconazole/
zinc OTC shampoos		Dandruff/seb dermPer label, e.g., 2× weekly; 3–5-min contactConsistent scalp care helps prevent some types of hair loss.
Barrier repairPanthenol / niacinamide / ceramidesDry/itchy scalpsLightweight leave-ins/tonics on skin between hairsAvoid high-alcohol formulas on sensitive scalp.
Weekly maintenanceMild exfoliation (salicylic 1–2% or low glycolic)Buildup/oily scalpsOnce weeklyAvoid in inflamed/open lesions.
In-clinic onlyMicroneedling; LED/LLLT; Rx topicalsDermatology settingsPer trained professional; sterile techniqueNo DIY microneedling; Rx only under MD oversight.

Reference American Academy of Dermatology and Cleveland Clinic

Scalp Photoaging & Cancer-Prevention (Thinning/Bald Scalps)

Why it matters: On a sun-damaged scalp, actinic keratosis (AK) is typical and can progress to cutaneous squamous cell carcinoma (cSCC). Early detection and protection reduce risk. The Skin Cancer Foundation

Prevention hierarchy (simple → advanced)

  1. Shade & timing: Limit late-morning to mid-afternoon exposure.
  2. UPF hats: Broad-brim UPF-rated hats protect the crown, vertex, and part; caps alone leave gaps. JAMA Network
  3. Direct SPF: Apply broad-spectrum SPF 30+ to exposed scalp skin (mists for sparse areas, powders for part lines, sticks for edges, clear gels for bald scalp). Cleveland Clinic
  4. Ongoing surveillance: Teach patients to feel for rough, sandpapery patches; AKs are often easier felt than seen. The Skin Cancer Foundation

Application tips for part lines & thinning areas

  • Zig-zag the part, then press mineral powder SPF into the skin.
  • For sprays, lift hair in sections, spray 2–3″ away, and massage to reach scalp.
  • Trace hairline/crown with SPF stick; blend to avoid clumping on hair strands.

Counseling scripts (ready to use)

  • Bald/thinning: “Your scalp needs SPF just like your face does. A UPF hat paired with scalp-specific sunscreen reduces the risk of long-term damage, scalp skin aging, and further hair loss.”
  • Part lines: “Your hair part is also bare skin—so dust it with SPF powder, or use an SPF stick directly on the line, which can help prevent hair thinning.”

Product-Form Education: Neutral Buyer’s Guide (Non-affiliate)

6-item selection checklist:

Red Flags & When to Refer (Pro-first)

Refer to a board-certified dermatologist if you see:

  • Non-healing or recurrently bleeding lesions
  • Rough, sandpapery patches on sun-exposed scalp (possible AK)
  • Field cancerization (multiple AKs across a region)
  • Rapidly enlarging, indurated nodules
  • Uncertain diagnoses (e.g., AK vs. seborrheic keratosis vs. psoriasis) The Skin Cancer Foundation

FAQs

Is the scalp older than the face?
The scalp often ages faster because it receives intense UV and is frequently missed during sunscreen application—especially as hair thins or parts widen. Protect with UPF hats + SPF 30+. Cleveland Clinic

Does scalp aging cause hair loss?
Aging impairs HFSCs and the follicle niche, shortening growth cycles and producing thinner fibers (miniaturization). This contributes to age-related thinning even without disease. PMC+1

How do I protect the part line?
Use a mineral powder SPF pressed into the line or a clear stick traced along it; reapply mid-day in outdoor settings. Cleveland Clinic

Why are bald scalps high-risk?
Once hair is lost, UV exposure spikes and risk for AKs increases—necessitating consistent prevention and surveillance. NCBI

Glossary (For Quick Reference)

  • HFSC: Hair follicle stem cells—drive hair regeneration.
  • Photoaging: UV-driven premature aging of skin structures.
  • Actinic keratosis (AK): Precancer arising on sun-damaged skin; can progress to cSCC. The Skin Cancer Foundation
  • Dermoscopy (trichoscopy): Magnified imaging of scalp skin/follicles.
  • Barrier repair: Restoring the scalp’s protective outer layer (lipids, hydration).

Conclusion & CTA

The scalp is often the forgotten skin—and yet it is central to hair health, premature scalp aging, and cancer prevention. With daily SPF, barrier-first routines, practical product formats, and early referrals, professionals can meaningfully improve outcomes while educating patients.

Download: Scalp Photoaging Quick Protocol—a one-page checklist + counseling script you can use in clinic or share with advanced consumers. Educational only.

References (Authoritative)

  • American Academy of Dermatology — Everyday Scalp Care. American Academy of Dermatology
  • Cleveland Clinic — Best Ways to Protect Hair From Sun Damage (SPF, hats, timing). Cleveland Clinic
  • Skin Cancer Foundation — Actinic Keratosis overview & warning signs. The Skin Cancer Foundation+1
  • JAMA Dermatology — Focal Photodamage on the Occipital Scalp (cap coverage gap). JAMA Network
  • StatPearls (NCBI) — Androgenetic Alopecia complications (UV exposure/AK risk). NCBI
  • HFSC reviews — Aging of HFSCs & niches; Signaling pathways in hair aging. PMC+1

Links through Amazon.com are examples only, I try to only include professional brands whenever possible. As I participate in the Amazon Affiliate program using my links helps support my website.

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The Ultimate Guide to Haircut Intervals: When and How Often to Trim

The first time I heard of the idea that the moon could influence hair growth, I worked with folks of Italian descent. Later, when I moved to the Dominican Republic, I observed that most farmers decide when to plant and trim the plants based on the lunar cycle.

Then, the other day, I was chatting with some neighbors about hair and nails when the idea of lunar haircutting came up. So, I decided to do some investigation.

When should you cut your hair, based on the moon?

Cutting hair on a full moon or a new moon is common in various cultures. 

It is important to note that no scientific evidence supports the idea that lunar phases directly impact hair growth or haircut outcomes. 

Here are a few perspectives on this topic:

  1. Full Moon: In some places, belief in cutting hair during a full moon promotes faster growth and healthier hair. The full moon’s energy is believed to promote growth and renewal.
  2. New Moon: Similarly, other cultures believe cutting hair during a new moon can lead to thicker and stronger hair growth. The new moon is associated with new beginnings and a fresh start.
  3. Moon Phases: Some astrologers say that certain moon phases can influence the outcomes of different activities, including haircuts.
  4. Traditional Practices: These practices may be based on long-held cultural or spiritual beliefs passed down through generations.

Various cultures worldwide share the belief in lunar haircutting. Here are a few examples:

In the Dominican Republic and Italy, beliefs and practices associated with lunar timing are often rooted in folklore, spirituality, and cultural traditions. Here are some general insights into how lunar timing might affect culture and why lunar timing for haircuts is even a thing?.

  • Agronomy and farming: Lunar cycles have historically been linked to Dominican and Italian agricultural practices. It is not uncommon for traditional farmers to plant, cultivate, or harvest crops according to lunar phases, which are believed to influence plant growth and yield.

However, more scientific evidence needs to be found to support the idea that the lunar cycle significantly impacts plant growth or health. In general, scientists consider these practices pseudoscientific and unsupported by empirical evidence. 

  • When planning ocean-related activities, fishermen and others in coastal regions like the Dominican Republic consider lunar timing since the full moon influences tides and ocean currents.
  • Traditional Medicine: In the Dominican Republic, traditional herbalists consider lunar timing when preparing home remedies. They believe things like parasites have a lunar cycle. Some Italian communities say phases of the moon are better for specific health treatments.
  • Folklore and Superstitions: These stories can influence people’s perceptions and actions during certain lunar events.
  • Traditional Festivals and Celebrations: Some Italian festivals and celebrations are tied to lunar events, such as the summer solstice or the first full moon following the vernal equinox.
  1. Chinese Culture often emphasizes the importance of lunar cycles in various aspects of life, including health and beauty. Some people in Chinese culture believe that cutting hair during certain lunar phases can influence hair growth and overall well-being.
  2. Hindu Culture: Some Hindus may choose auspicious dates based on lunar cycles for haircuts and other life events.
  3. Native American and Indigenous Cultures: Lunar cycles may influence their traditional practices, including decisions about haircuts and personal rituals.

It’s essential to recognize that beliefs and practices related to lunar timing can vary widely within a culture and may change over time due to various factors, including modernization, globalization, and lifestyle.

**One side point that made me think of the reasons behind lunar haircutting beliefs is that the moon can affect menstrual cycles, although the extent of its influence is a subject of ongoing research and debate. From a scientific standpoint, limited concrete evidence supports a direct relationship between lunar phases and menstrual cycles.

When exploring other cultural beliefs, approach them with respect and a willingness to learn about the specific context and meanings behind these traditions.

If you asked, “Which day should hair be cut? Or When to cut your hair for growth?; When considering cutting your hair based on lunar phases, it’s a personal choice, and you should feel free to follow any beliefs or traditions that resonate with you.  However, the lunar calendar can be a good reminder to get your monthly trim.

However, these beliefs about the moon’s effect on haircutting are not universally accepted or supported by scientific evidence.

However, it’s always a good idea to prioritize your decisions about your hair care routine on the advice of professional hairstylists.

How often should you cut your hair?

While there is no universally agreed-upon scientific guideline for when to cut hair, Trimming every 6-8 weeks is a standard recommendation for women and every 3-4 weeks for men or very short cuts.

The decision of when to cut your hair is influenced by personal preferences, cultural norms, and individual hair care needs. 

Here are some factors to consider:

  • Hair Growth Phases: Hair cycles from growth to rest and shedding.  The active growth phase, called the anagen phase, can last from 2 to 7 years, or even longer in some cases. The length of the anagen phase largely determines how long an individual’s hair can grow. Cutting hair during this phase promotes healthier hair by removing split ends and encouraging even growth.
    •  It’s important to note that not all hair follicles are in the same phase simultaneously. Hair follicles throughout the scalp are in different stages at any given time, so hair shedding is a continuous process, and not all hair is lost at once. ( Unless  you have chemotherapy or alopecia) 
  • Split Ends: Regular trims help prevent split ends from traveling up the hair shaft, potentially preventing you from growing your hair long.
  • Hair Type: Different hair types have varying growth rates. Curly hair, for example, may not show growth as clearly as straight hair. Pay attention to your hair’s condition and overall health.
  • Goals: What are your hair goals? Are you aiming for longer hair or just maintaining a particular style?

FAQ’s

How often should you cut your hair for growth?

If you’re growing your hair out, fewer trims might be better to retain length. Try trimming only every 8-12 weeks.

Should you cut your hair when growing it out?

Yes! It’s not a good idea to completely avoid haircuts to grow your hair longer. Because there are some difficult grow-out stages when you feel like nothing you do looks good. Your hairdresser can help you keep a nice shape without cutting too much off and ward off split ends.

  • Damage and Breakage: If your hair is damaged or breaking easily, more frequent trims may be necessary to remove weak or split ends.
  • Hairstyle Maintenance: Some hairstyles require more maintenance to maintain their style. Hair grows an average of half an inch or 1.27 cm per month, so shorter styles need frequent trimming and shaping. Trimming and shaping every 3-5 weeks should keep you in tip-top shape.
  • Seasonal Changes: Seasons can influence how fast hair grows. Factors like heat, cold, dry or humid weather, and hormonal shifts during certain times of the year can increase or decrease hair growth.
  • Health and Nutrition: Your overall health directly affects hair growth. A balanced diet rich in nutrients like protein, vitamins, and minerals can support healthy hair growth.
  • Personal Preference: Ultimately, when to cut your hair is a personal decision. Some people prefer a consistent trim schedule, while others cut their hair when they notice specific issues like split ends or uneven growth.

When you cut your hair, does it grow faster?

You should be aware that while trimming your hair can help maintain its health and appearance, cutting hair does not directly stimulate faster growth.  Rather,  genetics, age, hormones, and overall health are what influence hair growth.

If you need help determining the best time for your haircuts, consult your professional hairstylist, who will provide personalized advice based on your hair type, condition, and goals.

In conclusion

I don’t personally follow lunar haircutting schedules. However, even if science can’t explain how the lunar cycle can affect things like tides and women’s periods, I don’t completely rule out the idea of lunar timings.

Trimming or haircutting should be based on your hair’s condition, style, and goals.

Make a list based on some of the ideas in this article. Then, share them with your stylist to determine your best haircutting schedule.

Please comment below on your experiences with haircuts on lunar timings.

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8 Best Online Continuing Education Courses for Cosmetology 2024

When my license is about to expire (every two years), I must review the best online continuing education course for cosmetology. I often wonder, “Do I stick with the same CE course as last time, or is there something better out there?” This is a question all consumers ask.

In the past, I usually choose whoever sends the renewal announcement first.

I also look for online continuing education courses that offer the best prices to cover the minimum requirements for keeping my license active.

Before we had online courses, we had to go to a physical location to hear lectures on AIDS/HIV and then find separate elective courses. One time, I had to drive an hour away for that.

This year, because of my limited time, I didn’t want to sit in a classroom with 20+ other people.

Some FAQs about online CE courses are:

  • Are these CE legitimate courses?
  • How many hours do I need?
  • How much does CE cost?
  • Are there any free CE courses?

This article will answer those questions and compare continuing education courses to see what you get for your money.

Are these Legitimate State Board Approved CE courses?

Yes, the CE courses that are State Board Compliant have a provider number and registration for the approved states. 

Some states don’t have approved online Continuing Education courses because they don’t require CE. 

Find out your state CE requirements to see if the online CE course complies with the minimum standard. 

I have never had a problem with online CE courses for my state. 

Even if you do not reside in an area where continuing education (CE) is mandatory, it is still essential to stay updated with the latest scientific knowledge and to review salon sanitation and disinfection practices for the sake of public health and safety.

You will receive a certificate upon completing your CE course, which can be showcased to establish trust and professionalism with your clients.

How many hours do I need?

Every state is different, and rules often change regularly. Some states do not currently require continuing education with every license renewal, but we recommend that you keep up with changes.

I hold a License in the State of Florida.

The Hourly Requirement for Florida has changed to 10 hours for most people. However, if you just got your license, the CE is a less extensive 4-hour HIV course. 

Florida CE Requirements are:

Cosmetologists, Estheticians, Nail Technicians, Electrologists

10 Total Hours of Continuing Education: 1 Hour HIV/AIDS + 3 Hours Infection Control + 0.5 Hour OSHA + 0.5 Hour Workman’s Comp laws + 2 hours State & Federal Laws Governing Cosmetology + 1 Hour Chemical Makeup + 1 Hour Environmental Issues + 1 Hour Elective

On May 17, 2024, the Governor of Florida signed a law that reduces regulatory burdens on DBPR license holders by exempting certain licensees from continuing education requirements. 
You are exempt if you have an Active Licence and have been Licensed for ten (10) or more years without disciplinary action.

https://www2.myfloridalicense.com/cosmetology/hot-topics/

8 Best Online CE Courses for Cosmetology and Barbering

  1. Elite CME(English/Spanish languages)
    • Use promo code WELCOMETOELITE for $5 off.
    • Free Sanitation Course,and Educational Blog
    • You can order a free printed course book to be delivered to your address. If you only want to stay updated and don’t need to renew your CE.
    • Specialized Nail Tech and Esthetician courses are offered
    • They offer 4 or 10-hour courses.
  1. Paragon CET(English/Spanish languages)
    • Depending on your state, barbering and specialized Nail Tech and Esthetician courses are offered.
    • You can order a free printed course book to be delivered to your address. If you only want to stay updated and don’t need to renew your CE.
  1. Renew Cosmetology
    • This company sent me a notice for the first time in 2020, so they became the reason I am writing this article. Thanks, Guys
    • They offer 4, 10 or 16-hour courses.
  1. Milady Training (Most Expensive, Best Technical refresher)
    • This CE is not a complete course; it is an ala carte (so make sure you fulfill your state requirements). All online courses are in English.
    • CE courses for Beauty Instructors/Educators are offered
    • You can also buy the latest textbooks in English, Spanish, and Vietnamese languages.
  1. Continuing Cosmetology (includes the most number of states) 
    • This CE is not a complete course for some states; it can be ala cart (so make sure you fulfill your state requirements)
    • CE courses for Beauty Instructors/Educators are offered in some states.
  1. Beauty Bliss CE (Cheapest—Florida Only) This year, I was a little disappointed with the module on Florida Law. The information was not printed in the course material, and only a non-working link was provided to investigate the answers. So, I had to give my best guess and answer from memory.
  1. Florida Online Cosmetology (Florida only)
    • Vietnamese Language was previously offered but was recently eliminated.
  2. Florida Cosmetology Educators Online (Florida only—Same-Day Reporting): If you need to renew your license quickly, they have you covered.
    • “Nice infographics and charts make for easy reference materials.”
State ApprovedEliteCMEParagon CETMilady ProContinuingRenewBeauty BlissFL OnlineFLCEO
Arkansas –––x––––
California–––x––––
Colorado–––x––––
Floridaxxxxxxxx
Georgiaxx–x––––
Guam–––x––––
Illinoisxxxxx–––
Iowa–xx–––––
Kentucky –––x––––
Maryland–––x––––
Mississippi ––x–––––
Nebraska––xx––––
Nevada–––x––––
N Carolinaxxxxx–––
Ohiox–––––––
Texasx–––x–––
Washington DC––x–––––
W Virginia–x––––––
Price21.9519.9919.99Varies15.9914.9516.9527.95
LanguagesEng/EspEng/EspEnglishEnglishEnglishEnglishEnglishEnglish
Reporting1- dayDaily24 hoursdailySame Day
DownloadableAfter purchaseYesYesNo-FailYes
No-Fail		No-FailYes

Why would you choose one CE course over another?

It all depends on the reason for needing continuing education. Some companies offer more valuable information or interesting electives, such as skin cancer or business administration skills.

In some states, CE is not required; however, I recommend getting the Sanitation certificate many companies offer.

The COVID certificate is a short and inexpensive course that provides a good refresher on safe work practices and hygiene.

Some companies offer online CE courses in other languages, like Spanish.

Milady Pro and Continuing Cosmetology offer CE for instructors of Cosmetology and Barbering.

Are there any free CE courses?

Barbicide offers a quick free course with a certificate. 

Elite CME has a free sanitation video.

*These are NOT state-approved Continuing Education courses. However, it’s a perfect refresher course in acceptable hygiene practices.

In Summary

Choose your CE based on your needs and circumstances. 

This year,  time and money were my main concerns. So, I chose a downloadable online course to read while in bed. The next day, I took the multiple-choice online test and instantly got my certificate.

I find online CE courses similar, except for Milady Pro, which has some refresher courses equivalent to Hairdressing school.

Some of the online courses have a more comfortable reading format that makes learning easier.

All the best, and Happy learning

Please comment below if you have found any other resources and helpful information to share with your fellow professionals.

**As an Amazon Associate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases. Thank you for your support.

2 thoughts on “8 Best Online Continuing Education Courses for Cosmetology 2024”

  1. sophielacoq33's avatar sophielacoq33 says:

    Just so others know…Florida Online Cosmology has a 30 day turn over for reporting to DBPR! I wasted time doing the whole course only to find this out at the end of completion. They claim u can renew Fast right on the front page! False.

    Reply
    1. Stephanie Sanchez's avatar Stephanie Sanchez says:

      Thanks for sharing your experience with us.

      Reply

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5 Reasons We Cut Our Hair Short – the Psychology of Haircutting

I’ll never forget the first time a client walked into the salon on a Friday night and wanted to cut her waist-length hair to shoulder-length. She walked out of the salon very excited about her new look. 

When I arrived the following morning, I was immediately called into the store manager’s office and nearly lost my job. That’s when I realized that Hairdressers have to be psychologists, too. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to offer Psychology of Haircutting 101 as part of our curriculum.  

In this article, we’ll consider these questions

  • Why is cutting hair so emotional?
  • Why you should never cut your hair on Impulse
  • 5 reasons that Make us want to cut our hair

Why is cutting hair so emotional

The answer is simple: if you’re a toddler getting your first haircut. They don’t understand that cutting their hair isn’t going to hurt like cutting their finger.  Besides, Mom always says don’t play with scissors.

However, the emotional adult response is usually a more complicated trauma response. Why can cutting your hair be so traumatic?

Lack of good communication at the hair salon:

My friend’s hair is past her butt, not quite to the knees. She is scared to go to most hairdressers and typically trims her own hair, except whenever I’m in town.  “I just want a trim”, she says. But frequently, hairdressers cut way too much off. I show her exactly where I will cut and trim, only what is essential to make a nice clean line and more volume. My friend’s hair is in excellent condition. She just tries to keep split ends at bay.

Rule #1 Don’t take liberties with people who take pride in their long hair.

Our hair becomes our identity, particularly long hair. 

The idea also applies to hair color.  If we alter our hair dramatically, it will impact how we feel about ourselves.

My mother used to cut my hair with bangs when I was a kid; She liked them and thought I should wear bangs too. When I became a teenager, I realized bangs made me feel uncomfortable, and I am NOT my mother. I have my OWN identity. 

So, if you have extraordinarily long hair, think thrice before you decide to guillotine it. Chopping off long hair can be most traumatic since it takes so much time to grow; long hair IS your identity.

Avoid buyer’s remorse if cutting your hair is just a passing fancy.

Communication is Vital

I had just moved to a new town in my early 20s and was starting to make new friends. One of my new friends had never really done any new styles with her hair. She just kept her long, one-length, straight hair with bangs. I showed her pictures, and we discussed a plan for her at length. A few days later, I saw her, and she had visited a different hairdresser and was extremely unhappy with the results. I think she never changed her hairstyle after that experience.

What went wrong? Why didn’t she wait for me to cut her hair?

Don’t assume that every hairdresser has the same talent or ability. We all have different strengths and weaknesses. We don’t all have the same experience or education. We haven’t all been exposed to new techniques or keep up to date with trends.

2 ways to improve communication with your stylist:

  1. Photographs always help when trying to communicate what you want.
  2. Find a Hairdresser with appropriate skills and a similar mindset

Before you jump into something dramatic, that might have life-altering emotional consequences for you.  

  • Spend time with your stylist and make sure they share your mindset.  Be willing to say, “Sorry, I don’t think I want to do that.” It’s hard, I know because most hairdressers are trained salespeople who are experts at upselling. However, a true professional would rather retain a happy customer than have a one-time relationship with you. This, in turn, builds confidence and trust, and in the future, you may be more inclined to take their suggestions.
  • See what work they’ve done on other people. Let them prove that they have abilities with your kind of hair.
    • Do you like their work?
    • Did that person have similar hair as you? 
  • Stick by your stylist
    • Don’t change hairdressers on impulse
    • Once you believe you have the same mindset. Don’t think you will get the desired results impulsively with another stylist.
  • If you dynamically change your hair, you must realize you might not like it and have to grow it back out. 

Recently, a friend posted a picture of herself regretting her haircut.

I texted her, asking, “What happened? I didn’t think your hair was that short.” She explained that she is in the process of growing her hair out again. Her straightened hair was probably mid-back length, and she cut it short enough that she felt uncomfortable with it except for having it back in a bun or up and away from her face.

I told her that I often have the same struggles, even as a hairdresser. We proceeded to talk about the reasons why we cut our hair.

5 Reasons We Cut Our Hair Short 

  • Reason #1 Unhappiness

I WANT TO CUT MY HAIR when I feel frustrated and unhappy with myself or my appearance. I think that cutting my hair will make me feel more cheerful.  And it DOES, for a while. 

So, Why does cutting your hair feel good?

Call it excitement, adrenaline rush, the thrill of the chase, or the endorphins of trying something new. An attractive appearance has less to do with our hair and more to do with our attitude.  So maybe a haircut is our answer to having a bad day.  

My hypothesis: Men must be much happier 😉 Since they cut their hair more frequently.

Actually, some men also experiment with their hairstyle, and experience the same highs and lows about their looks.

The Short-lived high of a NEW hairstyle

Reality check: 

Shortly after my haircut, I often regret my decision and then let it grow out again.  When reality hits, styling my short, wavy hair in high humidity is challenging. 

Usually, you have to style short hair more frequently than you do long hair. It’s our thinking and self-criticism that make us unhappy.

Returning to the girl who almost made me lose my job. Looking back, I would’ve cut about half as much as she asked me to or made her sign a waiver. She would’ve had some of the thrills, shorter hair, maybe without as much trauma when reality hit.

Then she realized how different it would be styling medium-length hair with long layers; she wasn’t accustomed to it since her hair had been all one length. Probably in her mind, she now had short hair with layers, and that required maintenance.  She wasn’t a happy camper like the previous night.

  • Reason #2 Nostalgia

Our bodies and hair change over time.  When we start reminiscing about how we looked when we were younger.  We think about how nice we looked and want to look that way again. I want to cut my hair like before to make me feel young again.

Reality check: 

Seeing photos of myself during the grow-out stage reminds me that not all hair lengths are flattering and make me look heavier; I become very discontent with my haircut. 

Reason #3 Addiction

Haircutting can be an addiction, and so can hair coloring. Ok, so it’s not the same as substance abuse.

As we discussed, the NEWness of things creates endorphins in our brains, temporarily making us feel happy.  So that is why people like buying new things, new relationships, trying new looks, etc.

Reason #4 Identity

Why do older women cut their hair short? And Why cutting your hair is empowering?

While some people get traumatized by significant haircuts, others are trying to reinvent themselves and discover their unique style.  

Most people do this when they’re younger. We establish our signature style.

Maybe our upbringing demanded that we maintain a specific look, like keeping our hair long. Then, during a midlife revelation, you become less tolerant of being told what to do.  

Or cutting your hair could be a matter of practicality: You may need to wash and dry your hair more frequently because you sweat a lot.

Maybe it was a drastic change, like shaving your head. A woman I follow on TikTok said she tried growing her hair out, but she no longer identifies with long hair. For her, short hair is practical because long hair requires more work, maintenance, and products, which means expense.

Reason #5 Control

Some people cut their hair off because of depression, loss, and grief.  They think “out with the old, in with the new.”

It’s something you can control when life seems out of control.

Cutting off one’s hair is a normal and common way to deal with loss. In fact, this custom has been mentioned even in ancient times. 

If life gives you lemons, get a haircut!

In review 

Before you go through with a major haircut, Ask yourself, 

Is cutting my hair an emotional decision or a matter of practicality?  

Is it an impulsive decision, or am I convinced that it’s what I want?

If you do go through with it, make sure you find a hairstylist with the same mindset and that has the required skills. Try doing it in phases so you don’t go into shock and have an emotional crisis.

Do you know of another reason why cutting off your hair can be liberating or traumatic? 
If so, please share your stories with us below in the comments

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What doesn’t Barbicide disinfectant do?

My husband says that I continuously preach salon sanitation. That’s why I’m so GRATEFUL for Corona!  Why on earth would I say that?  

COVID and other recent outbreaks have raised awareness of the importance of public health, safety, and hygiene.

I’ve lived in lands where salon cleanliness isn’t always up to par with regulated countries, so I want to review some basics you may already know from your continuing education.

I want to reassure the public about what measures are taken to ensure our salons are safe.

We will consider in this article:

  • Is a Disinfectant like Barbicide adequate for killing Fungus and scabies?
  • Is Barbacide safe?
  • How do you mix Barbicide?

“Clean, sanitize, and disinfect are often used interchangeably. The distinction “to clean” refers to scrubbing with soap and water, whereas “sanitizing” and “disinfecting” kill germs and bacteria via chemical means. Typically, disinfectants kill more germs than sanitizers.”

merriam-webster.com

For better comprehension in the salon setting, we’ve replaced “Sanitize” with “cleaning & disinfecting”.

  • Is a Salon Disinfectant like Barbicide adequate for killing Corona?

    • YES! Barbicide and Barbicide TB are approved by the EPA to disinfect salons from the coronavirus and other pathogens. Barbicide can clean most salon surfaces, tools, and equipment.

    The correct dilution is essential to be effective against pathogens, save money, and prevent damage.

    Want to put your customers at ease? Get Barbicide COVID-19 certified

    Running the disinfectant solution for 20 minutes through the jets is crucial for items like foot spas, so don’t just leave it soaking.

    Corona is only ONE danger lurking in your Salon.

    Besides the CoronaVirus, what other dangers will proper salon disinfection prevent?

    • HIV can live in dried blood at room temperature for six days and if wet for weeks.
    • Hepatitis C virus (HCV) can remain infectious for up to 6 weeks on surfaces at room temperature.  HIV.gov
    • *Fungus: Tinea (ringworm/ jock itch, athletes foot), Yeast, These fungal spores can live for as long as 12 to 20 months in the right environment. healthline.com 
    • *Parasite infestations: Lice, scabies
    • *Staphylococci: (Present in skin abscesses, pustules, and boils) Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) can survive on some surfaces, like towels, razors, furniture, and athletic equipment for hours, days, or even weeks. CDC.gov
    • *Streptococci: (Found in blood poisoning) can survive on a dry surface for 3 days to 6.5 months canada.ca
    • Diplococci: Causes pneumonia
    • Gonococci: Causes gonorrhea
    • *Meningococci: Causes meningitis
    • Bacilli: Produces tetanus, influenza, diphtheria, typhoid, and tuberculosis
    • *COVID-19
      • How long does the coronavirus last on surfaces?
        • Current evidence suggests that coronavirus remains active on surfaces made from various materials for hours or days. Cleaning visibly dirty surfaces, followed by disinfection, is a best practice for preventing COVID-19 and other viral respiratory illnesses.

    **NO salon should service a person under treatment for or who is suspect of, highly contagious bacterial infections, viruses, fungal, or parasites infections. Especially those that are manifested on the skin.

    Dirty hands and unclean objects can transmit pathogens through breaks or wounds in the skin.

    Killing pathogens is much more accessible outside the body. Once they enter the body, they are much harder to fight, and we may become severely ill. 

    Your salon might incur liability for spreading infection.

    How to properly disinfect your salon and home with Barbicide

    Clean (or Sanitize)

    The appropriate and adequate way of disinfection is a 2-step process

    1. Clean the visible signs of dirt and debris by washing with detergent and water. 
    2. Then, non-porous items are ready for disinfectant.

    A “Non-porous” surface or object, such as metal, glass, and plastic, DOESN’T allow liquids to pass and be absorbed.  “Porous” materials DO. Porous or absorbent items are considered disposable and are only for one-time use. Unfortunately, not everything is sanitizable.

    Permeable items include all nail files and emery boards unless they are made entirely of metal or glass. Absorbent objects also include, but are not limited to, pumice stones, buffing blocks, orangewood sticks, cotton, toe separators, and flip-flops. 

    CaviCide Surface Disinfectant/Decontaminant Cleaner

    Pro Tip:

    in some cases, certain items can be kept for a specific client in a sealed ziplock bag, with their name written on the outside. Under NO circumstances should it  be used on a different client. 

    Disinfection

    • “To Disinfect” means making non-porous items safe for use.
    • Disinfection is accomplished by using an EPA-registered chemical agent to kill or denature a pathogen for the amount of time required (moist contact) for the disinfectant to be effective against the pathogens on the label.

    Sterilization

    Sterilization refers to something entirely free of contamination.  

    An Autoclave is an example of how sterilization is achieved. It uses heat and pressurized steam to decontaminate.

    Tuttnauer– Autoclave For Small Offices

    High-temperature sterilizers, which use dry heat to sterilize, are a great way to decontaminate skincare tools, scissors, or other tools generally made from stainless steel.

    Ultrasonic cleaners combine heat and sound to remove the buildup of debris while killing microbes. Another plus is they are more affordable than an autoclave.

    CO-Z 2L Professional Ultrasonic Cleaner with Digital Timer & Heater

    Storage

    So once your items have been cleaned and properly disinfected or sterilized, you must keep them clean until the following use.  

    • According to US law, ultraviolet light is not an approved form of disinfection. However, it is an acceptable form of storage and helps keep your tools safe from airborne contaminants.

    Electric Towel Warmer UV Sterilizer

    Other Available Salon Disinfecting Essentials

    Of course, wipes are the simplest way to clean your station, salon chairs, and other surfaces touched by clients. The active ingredients in hospital-grade disinfectant wipes are mixed with isopropyl, requiring less contact time.

    Disinfectant Sprays are the next best thing to Wipes and are more cost-effective.  They generally require more contact time to be effective against pathogens. 

    




    FAQ: Can I use Barbicide in a spray bottle?
    YES, As long as you properly mix your Barbicide solution, you can use it as a disinfecting spray. And don’t forget about wet contact time.
    




    Tools
    




    Some tools, like clippers, can’t be cleaned with soap and water or submerged in a Barbicide solution because they will rust. Isopropyl alcohol is flammable and doesn’t lubricate clippers. Therefore, All-In-One Clipper Spray disinfectant was invented.
    




    

    Andis Cool Care Plus For Blades
    

    




    In conclusion:
    




    Barbicide can disinfect and kill COVID-19 and most other pathogens in your salon.  However, you must always mix according to the instructions and use appropriate contact time. 
    




    




    In some situations, you may also need other sterilization and storage equipment. 
    




    




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    Hair Dye Color Reactions-Why it happens & What can you do?
    
	
    

	
			
    
				
			
    

		
	
    
		

    Adverse hair color reactions to hair dye are nothing new. The most dreaded thing as a professional is when your client has an unfortunate hair color reaction.  If you are dyeing your hair, home hair color is not necessarily safer.
    




    A lack of knowledge and experience can be a life-threatening danger.
    




    Overconfidence, as professionals, is very dangerous.  You may think, “I know my product; I’ve used it a thousand times before.”
    




    My experience with hair color reactions really scared me. I want to share what happened:
    




    My color reaction happened in 2014 after I had the Chikungunya virus. I was away from home, so my friend did an all-over color. An hour later, I still had tingling by nighttime, and my scalp was swollen. 
    




    That’s when I started doing research.  She mixed the color incorrectly; instead of the typical 1/1 developer-to-color ratio, that color demanded 2/1. 
    




    I started applying hydrogen peroxide (3%) 2 times the first night for 30 minutes and one more time the following day. Along with shampooing and Benadryl, that’s what saved me. Since then, I have a dark spot on my face.
    




    The next hair color service, I also reacted but not as badly.  After that,  I returned to the off-scalp hair color process of foil highlights and lowlights.
    




    




    




    




    Why did I react to my hair dye?
    




    Mild sensitivity to hair dye is common because the permanent hair color chemicals are quite powerful. These reactions are usually mild and last for 30-45 minutes until your hair color finishes processing and is washed out. 
    




    Hair dye reactions are also frequent in pregnant women and those undergoing chemotherapy. In part due to lower immune response. 
    




    

    FAQ: Is it possible to develop an allergy to a hair product I’ve used for years?
    




    Allergic reactions worsen over time (as a hairdresser, I didn’t always use gloves when applying hair color), and those chemicals get absorbed through the skin.  Then your body gets oversaturated.
    

    




    True hair color allergy effects are not temporary. Allergic reactions become worse over time.
    




    Recently my fellow Hairdressers have noticed  that people who have had Coronavirus are more likely to react to hair color. 
    




    




    Are there specific ingredients I should avoid if I have a history of allergic reactions?
    




    The most frequent culprit of hair color reactions is paraphenylenediamine, aka PPD.
    




    PPD can cause hair color oxidation reactions. When PPD is only partially oxidized, that’s when it’s the biggest offender and causes allergic reactions.
    




    PPD is found primarily in permanent hair color, although some henna products and other kinds of hair color also contain it.
    




    Different names for PPD are  PPDA, 1,4-Benzenediamine, and Phenylenediamine base.
    




    Alternatives to PPD are para-toluene diamine (PTD) and toluene diamine sulfate (TDS), which can be tolerated more than PPD but can also cause contact dermatitis and allergic reactions in some people. 
    




    

    WELLA  Color Tango Permanent  Hair color (contains TDS)
    

    




    How serious is Hair dye allergy?
    




    A sensitivity to PPD may cause contact dermatitis; symptoms include itching, stinging, and red, or dry skin.
    




    Hair dye reactions may occur immediately or take up to 48 hours to manifest.
    




    What are the symptoms of an allergic reaction to hair dye?
    




      

    • Tingling or burning feeling on the scalp, face, or neck
      • 




    • Blisters or bumps
      • 




    • Itching or swelling of the scalp and face
      • 




    • Enlarged eyelids, lips, hands, or feet
      • 




    • Red rash anywhere on your body
      • 

    




    A Serious deadly hair color reaction includes :
    




      

    • Severe swelling
      • 




    • Difficulty breathing or swallowing 
      • 




    • Anthraphalaxis
      • 

    




    

    Call 911 or your local emergency HOTLINE and seek immediate help
    

    




    

    ZOTOS Agebeautiful Liqui-Creme (contains PPD)
    

    




    What should I do if I suspect I’m having an allergic reaction to a hair product?
    




    If you immediately react to the hair dye, rinse off the color rapidly, rinse thoroughly with warm or lukewarm water, then wash the scalp and hair with a mild shampoo at least twice.
    




    If you still feel an itchy sensation or swelling, you may need to include one of the following remedies.
    




    For delayed reactions:
    




      

    • Apply a mild 3% (10 volume) or less hydrogen peroxide to the scalp.

        

      • DO NOT use a Strong 30 or 40-volume (12%) peroxide; these will also burn the skin.
        • 




      • It’s a mild antiseptic and can help calm the skin and reduce irritation and blistering. The hydrogen peroxide will help to fully oxidize any remaining PPD dye left on the hair and scalp and make it non-reactive.
        • 

      

      • 




    • Apply potassium permanganate to the affected area that’s blistered or oozing pus. It can help treat bacterial and fungal infections. The astringent action helps to dry out the blistering.

        

      • Make sure to apply correctly, as it can cause skin burns.
        • 

      

      • 




    • Use an over-the-counter, topical corticosteroid skin cream for Contact Dermatitis symptoms, such as skin rash or itching.
      • 




    • Use shampoos for eczema and contact dermatitis.
      • 




    • Take an oral antihistamine, such as Benadryl, to help reduce skin inflammation and itching.
      • 

    




    If your symptoms don’t improve, or if they get worse, contact your doctor immediately. 
    




    

    Shampoo with Peat Mud – Natural Scalp Treatment  for Eczema, and Dermatitis. Contains No Sulfates, No Coal Tar.
    

    




    How can you prevent a hair dye reaction?
    




    We recommend our clients avoid caffeine and other nerve stimulants a day or two before having a chemical process in the salon. This will decrease your chances of a reaction.
    




    How can I test a hair product for potential allergic reactions before full use?
    




    If you are using a product for the first time, ALWAYS do a patch test** beforehand. This will help you determine your sensitivity to the hair dye.
    




    

    **Patch testing means applying a small amount of product (in this case, prepared hair color formula) and applying it in a small area (approx. 1 inch) behind your ear. Process, then wash, shampoo, and dry the area. Wait a full 24 hours to see if you react.
    

    




    

    Ion Permanent Creme Hair Color (contains TDS)
    

    




    Follow the instructions for each particular dye carefully to prevent any reactions caused by incorrect usage.  Instructions include:
    




      

    1. Correct mixing of color to oxidizer ratio
      2. 




    2. Don’t leave hair dye on for longer than recommended.
      3. 




    3. Wear Gloves whenever handling or applying hair dye.
      4. 




    4. Hair and scalp should be washed thoroughly after the application is complete for permanent dye. Rinse thoroughly and Shampoo at least twice.

        

      • Inadequate washing and rinsing leave behind a residue of color dye on the hair and scalp. 
        • 

      

      5. 

    




    Switch to Off-scalp hair color applications such as; highlight with foils or highlighting cap.  Instead of all-over color.
    




    Let a professional help you. Go to the Salon instead of trying to dye your own hair.
    




    

    Schwarzkopf IGORA ROYAL Permanent Color Creme (contains TDS)
    

    




    In Summary
    




      

    • Use better alternatives to PPD.
      • 




    • Always follow instructions on the hair dye packaging.
      • 




    • Always do a patch test.
      • 




    • Recent illness can cause you to react to hair color even if you’ve never had a problem before.
      • 




    • Allergic reactions get worse over time.
      • 

    




    As an Amazon Associate, I earn a small commission on qualified purchases. I try only to recommend products I use or think will be helpful.
    
			
    
				
    
					
				
    
			
    	
    

	
    


    

	
		
    
			
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    Do Avocados Masks Benefit your hair? The Dark Side of Avocados
    
	
    

	
			
    
				
			
    

		
	
    
		

    




    The story of avocado masks for hair is as old as dirt.
    




    When I lived in the US, I used to love eating avocados. Because they weren’t abundant, I never thought to apply them as a hair treatment.
    




    When we moved to the Dominican Republic, I met a girl whose hair was so gorgeous. I asked her what she uses on it? Her simple answer was avocados.
    




    Photo by Caique Silva on Pexels.com
    




    From that point on, I became a believer, fully convinced there was no downside to Avocados. 
    




    The only dark side, I thought, was when they oxidized and turned brown.
    




    We’re going to consider the following:
    




      

    • DO Avocados have benefits for your Hair?
      • 




    • Are Avocados always hair healthy, or do they have a Darkside?
      • 




    • What do they not tell you about Avocado for hair and scalp health?
      • 

    




    Are Avocados Good for Your Hair?
    




    In a word, YES!
    




    This blog isn’t about EATING avocados for healthy hair.
    




    We’re talking about applying avocados directly as hair cosmetics.
    




    The most apparent benefits of avocado hair masks are moisturizing your hair.
    




    Why is that?
    




    Photo by Daria Shevtsova on Pexels.com
    




    3 Reasons Why Avocados Make Excellent Conditioners
    




      

    1. Oils in Avocados act like emollients to seal in moisture.
      2. 




    2. Avocados contain small amounts of protein that helps repair damaged hair.
      3. 




    3. Avocados contain Sugars, Salts, and Minerals like magnesium & zinc that draw water to themselves, acting as humectants and adding moisture to your hair.
      4. 

    




    




    The Benefits of Micro Nutrients In Avocados
    




      

    • Rich source of B vitamins. Studies suggest that B vitamins are most effective when people apply them directly to the skin.

        

      • Niacin (B-3) and Pantothenic acid (B-5) help brighten the skin, reduce pigmentation, and rejuvenate skin. Making them a potential treatment for acne and rosacea. (source Dailymail.co.uk)
        • 




      • Biotin (B-7) and other B vitamins are antioxidants that help treat signs of aging and alleviate sensitive skin. Biotin, when consumed, is essential for healthy hair growth
        • 




      • Folate or Folic Acid (B-9): Avocados contain a significant folate amount, which is vital for tissue growth.
        • 

      

      • 

    




    Some people have mistakenly stated that Avocados help with eczema. After further investigation, I found that only Topical vitamin B12 decreases eczema symptoms like inflammation and itchiness by reducing nitric oxide production. (source PubMed)
    




    Avocados, however, DO NOT contain B12.
    




    

    Topical Vitamin B12 Skin Cream 
    




      – Helps with Eczema & Psoriasis. Gives Energy Like B12 Patch
    

    




      

    • Avocados contain more potassium than bananas. Potassium helps grow and repair cells and tissues.
      • 




    • Vitamin E: This vitamin curbs hair fall and stimulate hair growth by Improving scalp circulation and Balancing oil production.
      • 




    • Iron boosts circulation, which helps the hair grow faster and longer. Topically applied Iron is potentially therapeutic for skin wound healing.
      • 




    • Vitamin C: A potent antioxidant that promotes healing and can help strengthen the scalp and hair through increased collagen production.

        

      • Citric acid is one of a group of ingredients known as alpha-hydroxy acids used for Skin Renewal.
        • 

      

      • 




    • They also contain essential amino acids, copper, and omega-3 Fatty acids. However, I didn’t find any research on how they help when directly applied to skin and hair.
      • 

    




    (source  medicalnewstoday)
    




    Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com
    




    Avocado Hair Mask Recipe:
    








    Blend with a fork or in the blender until smooth.
    




    *For more healthy hair benefits, TRY adding a small amount of one or two of these other ingredients to your mixture:
    




    

    


    




    

    

    

    

    

    

    




    

    

    

    




    

    Too much work to make a homemade mask?  
    




    Try this one
    

    




    The Darkside of Avocados
    




    In 2016, I started the keto diet and had avocado shakes almost every night.
    




    Then in 2018, We moved to a house with three avocado trees in the backyard.
    




    At first, all was well; after a while, I felt like I didn’t want them anymore. I shrugged it off as I oversaturated my body on Keto.
    




    In 2019 I started working with the Kerotin Company and giving more attention to my hair care routine. 
    




    I started doing weekly hair masks. They included neem, henna, avocado, coconut oil, and a little water.
    




    I would get an itchy scalp and scalp inflammation when I was near the end of my treatment, which I attributed to the neem.
    




    But this year, upon returning to the Dominican Republic and again having plenty of avocados. I asked, “Why do avocados make me itchy?”
    




    Photo by Kristina  Nor on Pexels.com
    




    Why do avocados make me itchy?
    




    To prove to myself that I wasn’t crazy. I experimented with using Avocado and Coconut oil only as a hair mask, with no other ingredients.
    




     I tried ripe and rotten ones.
    




    I did it on dry and wet hair.
    




    Nothing helped. My scalp still got itchy, red, and Scabbed up.
    




    I also suffered excessive hair fall even though I brushed my hair before applying the avocado. The hair loss was better when I used the paste mixture on damp hair.
    




    That’s when I finally decided to do some research.
    




    Lo and behold.  I have an allergy to avocados.
    




    So I tested my husband, who has more intestinal issues with avocados.
    




    He was fine; nothing happened after almost 2 hours with avocado on his head.
    




    Avocado Allergy
    




    If you have a latex allergy,  you may also have symptoms with avocados. Avocado Allergy is called latex-food syndrome or latex-fruit allergy. Latex (made from the Brazilian rubber tree) and Avocados have a very similar protein, causing allergic reactions. Your symptoms could be mild or severe. They can also get worse each time you have an avocado. WebMD
    




    An avocado allergy can be caused by eating or touching this fruit. Skin coming into contact with avocado may cause irritation, redness, swelling, and itching, and an oral allergy will usually result in symptoms like itchy lips, mouth, and throat. Health24.com
    




    Side effects of avocado oil are rare, but it is possible to be allergic to avocados or oil. The best way to rule out an allergy is to do a patch test. Apply a small amount of avocado oil to a 1-inch patch of skin on the inside of the arm. medicalnewstoday.com
    




    

    100% Pure Avocado Oil –  Deep Moisturizer for Hair Face & Skin – Rich in Retinol & Vitamin E – Supports Skin Rejuvenation & Hair Growth
    




    

    




    Can avocados make your hair fall out?
    




    No avocados won’t make your hair fall out.
    




    However, if you have Avocado Allergy, Continued exposure can cause contact dermatitis.
    




    Signs and symptoms of contact dermatitis include:
    




      

    • A red rash.
      • 




    • Itching, which may be severe.
      • 




    • Dry, cracked, scaly skin.
      • 




    • Bumps and blisters, sometimes with oozing and crusting.
      • 




    • Swelling, burning, or tenderness.
      • 

    




    (source mayo clinic)
    




    In a recent study: Symptoms experienced in suspected scalp contact dermatitis patients.  The most commonly reported symptoms were scalp itching and burning (194 cases, 85.8%). Hair thinning and shedding was a common complaint as most patients had consulted the hair clinic because of hair loss (58.8%) (source karger.com)
    




    

    

    In Review
    




    Avocados are good for your hair and skin unless you are like me and have a rare allergy to them.
    




    Patch test your skin to determine if you are sensitive or allergic to avocados.
    




    I tried to keep my avocado mask off my skin, but I think I must forego avocados altogether.
    




    Please comment below and let us know if you are sensitive or allergic to avocados.
    




    *I earn a small commission from Amazon for qualified purchases. I try only to recommend products that I think are helpful or that I personally use.
    

    




    

    




    

    

    

    

    

    




    

    

    

    
			
    
				
    
					
				
    
			
    	
    

	
    


    

	
		
    
			
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